Gurez, the enchanting land of the Dards.
 Reviewed 19 July 2015
Gurez, the beautiful land of the Dard tribe was one enchanting land that had remained out of our reach on our previous visit to Kashmir, but not this summer. The development of Tourist Bungalow and removal of the permit for visit to the valley. Some amount of planning and our willingness to rough it out if necessary helped. Bungalow was booked directly with Ghulam Mohammed (94195 00029), the ever helping care taker of the JK Tourism property (curiously this property does not feature on their website). Journey from Srinagar to Dawar (where the bungalow is located can be covered in about 6 hours. A distance of approx 170 kms is covered in first leg upto Bandipor town, thereafter it is uphill drive (road not in good shape due to construction of Krishnaganga hydel project). However, the journey itself is breathtaking, the meandering road flanked by deep pine forest valley and stunning view of the wular lake in the distance gives company right till the rajdhan height. A major military post and home to the Peer Baba shrine (revered by the army there). We experienced snow covered Rajdhan on the way. From Rajdhan it is about 80 kms to Dawar. On the way one has to cross two fast flowing river / nullahs crossed by iron bridge (when we visited both bridges were disfunctional and we our vehicle had to do river crossing (dangerous and very scary though !). In another 1 hour you would be in Dawar, a small town by the river Krishnaganga (know as Neelam in Pakistan).
The Tourist Bungalow is near the army base, large green patch of lawns and the best managed property of JK Tourism managed by Ghulambhai and his team gives you that warm welcome that would ever etched in your memories,
Noorani Hotel across the fetches you all meals and teas and breakfast. They make one of the best Kashmir Haak (that I have ever had), Rogan josh and Rista. The breakfast of freshly baked loaf and lavas (Kashmiri bread) from the local bakery (fresh from the oven) with eggs and Kashmiri Chai would kick-start your day!
The Habba Khatoon Peak looms over the place and glistens magnificently in the evening setting sun, the mornings are equally refreshing. Crisp clean air, silence, mountain , pine forests and the noisy Krishnaganga for the company is what you get here to enjoy.
Go for long drives to the hills in Gurez valley and beyond (tulail valley). Apprx 20 villages have been put on list of places that a tourist can visit without any hindrance. Do remember this is very very close to the LOC and army is every where so is the barbed wired LOC which keeps company when you drive to Tulail.
Enjoy the nature and its bounty, visit charming little villages perched on hills flanked by the river, see the simple way of life, get invited for tea and lunch at every village (every one is eager to host you!).
My take away from Gurez valley ~ Go there to see a land unknown to the tourists. A way of life, admire their log huts, feel happy that militancy does not feature in their thought process, schools in every village brings education at the door step, children (including girls) go to school, medical facility is available in every village, education and government job is coveted and they are successful at that. The small village of Shaikhpora with only 16 families has given 40 odd government servants at various levels.
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